Wednesday, May 15, 2019

1 INCH SCALE NON-WORKING WINDOW - How to make a 1 inch scale non-working double hung window for your dollhouse.





This is the non-working double hung window for the attic.

It's made form mat board but you can make it out of basswood.
Where I glue the two pieces of mat board together you can use 3/32" thick basswood.






Cut strips of mat board 7/16" wide.
You need at least 22".











To glue the strips together I use tacky glue.


Glue two strips of mat board together.

This is where you could use 3/32" thick basswood instead of doubling the mat board.









Cut the top and bottom 2 25/32".

I am sorry about the 25/32", I am showing a picture of where that is.  It's between 2 3/4" and 2 13/16".










Cut two sides 5" long.

















To glue the window pieces together I use yellow wood glue.  This glue holds the best for this kind of thing.











Glue the sides to the ends of the top and bottom.

With the sides glued to the top and bottom your window should measure 3" wide and 5" tall.











Cut strips of mat board 3/16" wide.  Cut at least 40" to 45" of strips.  You want extra for miss cuts.

I know that sounds like a lot, I had to measure twice to believe it.

Again, you can buy basswood at Michaels that measures 3/16" wide and 3/32" thick.








Glue two strips together, use the tacky glue for this.









 You are going to make two frames for the windows and sandwich acrylic between them.

For each frame cut 3 pieces 2 3/4" long.  These are the horizontal pieces.

Cut 4 vertical pieces at 2 1/6".  Set the pieces inside your window frame to check this.  My pieces were cut just a hair over 2 1/16".  You don't want it too tight, just so it will slide in to fit.





I've got one frame done and it's setting in my window.

I've got just a tiny bit of room around the frame, easy to slide into place.









Two frames done.














Cut mat board strips 3/8" wide.  These are for the trim around the window, inside and out.















Glue two strips together.











Cut two pieces 4 13/16" long.



I have not glued the window frames in, they are just setting inside.








Use the yellow wood glue to glue the vertical trim to the outside of the frame.  Leave one layer of the mat board showing on the side AND on the top and bottom of the frame.










Do you see how the trim fits on the sides and top?  There is one layer of the mat board showing.


Cut another piece of the doubled mat board for the top.  This is cut to be even with the edge of the sides.  Glue that on with yellow wood glue.









Cut two strips of mat board 1/4" wide and glue together.  Cut a length 4 1/4" long.

This is glued along the frame's front edge and under the trim.








Cut another piece of doubled mat board the same length as the top.













This piece is glued under the window sill.











This is the frame for the window.
















To cover the raw edge of the window sill I cut a strip of paper to cover it.












I glued that on with yellow wood glue.













For the inside trim I cut mat board strips 3/8" wide.

I glued two together.

I also cut a strip of mat board 1/4" wide.









I sanded the edge of the doubled 3/8" wide strip.

I rounded the edge.










I glued the 1/4" wide strip onto the wider strip, keep the flat back edges even.

I then rounded the 1/4" wide strip.







I am painting the frames white for now.  Just using acrylic craft paint.

For the window pane I use acrylic from a poster frame.  I buy these poster frames from Walmart.  The acrylic can be scored with a craft knife and snapped.  Make sure to cut the plastic covering before snapping.  I leave that plastic covering on as long as I can so I don't mess the acrylic pane up.



That's it for now.

If you have questions I am at camceiling@frontiernet.net.


Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . .

Just Keep Making Minis!

Kris


Saturday, April 27, 2019

WONDERFUL PICTURE






David sent me a picture of his wife's French Country Wing Chair, finished from one of my kits.

She did a beautiful job on it and I wanted to show it off.  The choice of fabric is very nice with the white legs.  Her piping was done with great care and looks wonderful.

Thank you so much for taking the time to send me a picture of the finished kit.  I appreciate seeing the finished pieces.










On the e-mail not working, I received a comment about it and that got me to looking into things.  Yes, Google stuff isn't supported anymore.  I have put a new gadget on the top right side of the blog.  The gadget is to subscribe to a service that lets you know when I've published.  Let's try that for now.

Kris

Monday, April 22, 2019

E-MAIL NOTIFICATION IS NOT WORKING

My e-mail notification is not working.  I have sent "feedback" to blogger and so far nothing has come of it.
If anyone has any ideas on how to fix the problem let me know.  I think a lot of miniaturists are missing the posts.

Kris

Tuesday, April 16, 2019

1 INCH SCALE ATTIC ROOM BOX FROM FOAM CORE - How to make a 1 inch scale room box using foam core.



I am making a room box for this month's tutorial.  Over the course of the next few months I will be finishing it and making things to go into it.  I hope to create a Bohemian feel to the decor, at least I will try.   I'm calling it the Bo-Ho Attic Room Box.




I am using 3/16" thick foam core and tacky glue for this tutorial.

Put a new blade in your craft knife.


I am going to use the French doors from an earlier tutorial to fill the dormer.







I will be referring to these diagrams for making the parts.  THESE ARE NOT TO SCALE.  I've drawn them large to show the measurements.






I've cut out the floor -
11 3/4" x 14", the two short back walls -  4" x 6 1/8"
and the two sides.

Refer to the drawing above for the measurements for the sides.

I am cutting siding into the foam core.  Measure and mark at 1/2" up the sides and back walls.  Draw a line across.








Use your craft knife to cut into BUT NOT THROUGH the foam core.











Use the end of a ruler or something similar to press the foam core down at the top of the cut.

If you press on one side of the ruler and slightly lift the other side you can slide it across the foam core without making any dents showing the size of your ruler.








When I first started I pushed the ruler down and moved it over and pushed the ruler down again.  This made dents in my siding.

If you slide the ruler along the top of the cut you will get very nice siding.







This technique does weaken the foam core and also makes it warp.

We will take care of both of those problems.









I am putting in a window on one gable end.  That will be one of the later tutorials, making a double hung window from mat board.  It won't open.

Measure and mark 2 1/2" up from the bottom and 1 1/16" from the long side.









Cut the opening out.









I've glued the two sides on using tacky glue.  The sides should be even with the floor at the long side, that's the side that will be open to you.  There should be about a 1/4" extra at the short side, that's the side with the dormer.
The sides and backs are glued to the edge of the foam core, not on top of it.
Glue on the short back sides to the floor and sides.  These should butt up against the sides.




I've got my square out and I am drawing the lines that I will glue the dormer side wall to.  If you don't have a square measure and mark from the inside of the back wall 3" into the room box.  Do this measuring at the edge of the wall and from the corner.  Draw a line 4" long on those marks.  Now,  connect the end of that line with the edge of the back wall.  I hope that makes sense. 








The sides and the short back sides are glued on.

The side walls need a little support.










I've cut a strip that's 9 5/16" tall and about 3/4" wide.

I glued that to the sides to stiffen them up.









Cut the dormer side walls according to the diagram above.

I am setting these walls on the line that I drew earlier.

Mark the lines for the siding onto the dormer walls.
If you have a square, use it to keep the corners square.










I drew the lines, made the cuts and pressed the foam core at the top of the cuts.










Glue the dormer walls onto the floor and onto the short back sides.

The dormer walls are glued to the surface of the short back sides, not the edges.









These are the door walls.  Cut two of them and set one aside for now.

Use the diagram above for your measurements.









I know I'm cheating a bit because I have the French doors all ready made. There will be enough time for you to go back and make them if you decide to make this project along with me.

So, I traced the opening from my doors and cut the openings out.








I have to tell you that I did have to scrap out my first try.  I've never made a dormer and my measurements were wrong.  I am working with pictures from both room boxes and along the way I did forget to take a picture or two.  I do apologize.

With that said I forgot to take a picture of one of the door walls being measured against the dormer walls to match the siding.  I did it the same way I matched the dormer wall against the short back wall.  I drew the lines, cut on lines and pressed in the siding.









I've got the outside door wall glued in.









This is glued in 3/16" to 1/4" away from the edge of the dormer walls.

If you put your other door wall up against the outside door wall you can make sure this will all be even and flat.
Just don't glue the other door wall in, yet.  Take it back off after you have them evened up.









Just showing another picture of the door wall glued in.











I've cut 2 strips for more stabilization.  These are 14" long and about 3/4" wide. 

This is the diagram for the roof, again this is NOT TO SCALE.





The outline of the roof is drawn.

I've drawn the score line.  That's the peak of the roof.  You only score it, don't cut through, don't worry if you do I'll show you a fix later on.

Ignore the lines drawn on the sides in this picture and the rest.  I will explain later.






Cut the roof out.

Begin to follow the diagram drawing the lines in.












The next lines are 3/8" long.












Draw in the 1/4" lines next.















The center of the 15 3/8" side is 7 11/16".  Mark that at the edge and measure and mark again farther up on the foam core.










Measure that center line you drew to 7 1/2" long.

Now, connect the lines as shown in the picture.









Cut the score line at the peak.

Cut out the dormer hole.
















O.K. now you can draw the lines on the sides.

Turn the roof over and  measure 1/2" away from the sides.  This is the edge of the room box.





Remember, when I said don't worry if you cut through on a score line?  I didn't cut through but I made a measuring mistake and did not want to waste this piece of foam core.

I cut the front part of the roof off and cut the right size for the front.

I placed the two pieces together and glued card stock onto the foam core and I'm back in business.






It's going pretty good.  Like I said this is my second try and second day.  Once I figured the dormer and made a few compromises it worked out fine.







This is the diagram for the dormer roof.  This is NOT TO SCALE.





Follow the diagram above for the measurements.

My piece of foam core is 4 3/8" x 7 9/16".

The center of the 7 9/16" side is 3 23/32".  Mark that at top and bottom and draw a center line.  That's a score line, the peak of the dormer roof.






I've made marks on the side, 3/4" up from the bottom and 1/8" on either side of the center mark.











Connect the marks to make the triangle.












Cut the dormer roof out.














Turn the dormer roof over.

Measure and mark a line 1/4" away from the angled sides.











We are going to bevel this edge to fit into the dormer hole.

The secret to doing this is the first cut.
Cut along the line, not through.












Cut the bevel by following the line you have all ready cut.  Keep your blade point on the table.  Don't cut any of the foam core that's facing the table.

If you think your blade is dull put a new one in.  A sharp blade will help you cut more accurately.






There's the bevel.













Here's the dormer roof ready to be glued in.












Glue the dormer roof into the hole.














Side view of the dormer roof.

Be sure you aren't gluing the dormer roof to the door wall.











Let the dormer roof dry.

I have not glued the whole roof onto the room box.  I want to be able to get to everything so the roof won't be glued on for awhile.








I hope some of you make this journey with me.  I haven't made a room box in years.  I'm looking through catalogs and magazines trying to come up with things to make for you.

In the mean time I will put flooring in.

I have an idea about how to wall paper the room box.  I'm thinking about cutting out all the pieces of the room box and wall papering them and then gluing them into the room box.  What do you think?


Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . .

Just Keep Making Minis!

Kris