Monday, April 22, 2019

E-MAIL NOTIFICATION IS NOT WORKING

My e-mail notification is not working.  I have sent "feedback" to blogger and so far nothing has come of it.
If anyone has any ideas on how to fix the problem let me know.  I think a lot of miniaturists are missing the posts.

Kris

Tuesday, April 16, 2019

1 INCH SCALE ATTIC ROOM BOX FROM FOAM CORE - How to make a 1 inch scale room box using foam core.



I am making a room box for this month's tutorial.  Over the course of the next few months I will be finishing it and making things to go into it.  I hope to create a Bohemian feel to the decor, at least I will try.   I'm calling it the Bo-Ho Attic Room Box.




I am using 3/16" thick foam core and tacky glue for this tutorial.

Put a new blade in your craft knife.


I am going to use the French doors from an earlier tutorial to fill the dormer.







I will be referring to these diagrams for making the parts.  THESE ARE NOT TO SCALE.  I've drawn them large to show the measurements.






I've cut out the floor -
11 3/4" x 14", the two short back walls -  4" x 6 1/8"
and the two sides.

Refer to the drawing above for the measurements for the sides.

I am cutting siding into the foam core.  Measure and mark at 1/2" up the sides and back walls.  Draw a line across.








Use your craft knife to cut into BUT NOT THROUGH the foam core.











Use the end of a ruler or something similar to press the foam core down at the top of the cut.

If you press on one side of the ruler and slightly lift the other side you can slide it across the foam core without making any dents showing the size of your ruler.








When I first started I pushed the ruler down and moved it over and pushed the ruler down again.  This made dents in my siding.

If you slide the ruler along the top of the cut you will get very nice siding.







This technique does weaken the foam core and also makes it warp.

We will take care of both of those problems.









I am putting in a window on one gable end.  That will be one of the later tutorials, making a double hung window from mat board.  It won't open.

Measure and mark 2 1/2" up from the bottom and 1 1/16" from the long side.









Cut the opening out.









I've glued the two sides on using tacky glue.  The sides should be even with the floor at the long side, that's the side that will be open to you.  There should be about a 1/4" extra at the short side, that's the side with the dormer.
The sides and backs are glued to the edge of the foam core, not on top of it.
Glue on the short back sides to the floor and sides.  These should butt up against the sides.




I've got my square out and I am drawing the lines that I will glue the dormer side wall to.  If you don't have a square measure and mark from the inside of the back wall 3" into the room box.  Do this measuring at the edge of the wall and from the corner.  Draw a line 4" long on those marks.  Now,  connect the end of that line with the edge of the back wall.  I hope that makes sense. 








The sides and the short back sides are glued on.

The side walls need a little support.










I've cut a strip that's 9 5/16" tall and about 3/4" wide.

I glued that to the sides to stiffen them up.









Cut the dormer side walls according to the diagram above.

I am setting these walls on the line that I drew earlier.

Mark the lines for the siding onto the dormer walls.
If you have a square, use it to keep the corners square.










I drew the lines, made the cuts and pressed the foam core at the top of the cuts.










Glue the dormer walls onto the floor and onto the short back sides.

The dormer walls are glued to the surface of the short back sides, not the edges.









These are the door walls.  Cut two of them and set one aside for now.

Use the diagram above for your measurements.









I know I'm cheating a bit because I have the French doors all ready made. There will be enough time for you to go back and make them if you decide to make this project along with me.

So, I traced the opening from my doors and cut the openings out.








I have to tell you that I did have to scrap out my first try.  I've never made a dormer and my measurements were wrong.  I am working with pictures from both room boxes and along the way I did forget to take a picture or two.  I do apologize.

With that said I forgot to take a picture of one of the door walls being measured against the dormer walls to match the siding.  I did it the same way I matched the dormer wall against the short back wall.  I drew the lines, cut on lines and pressed in the siding.









I've got the outside door wall glued in.









This is glued in 3/16" to 1/4" away from the edge of the dormer walls.

If you put your other door wall up against the outside door wall you can make sure this will all be even and flat.
Just don't glue the other door wall in, yet.  Take it back off after you have them evened up.









Just showing another picture of the door wall glued in.











I've cut 2 strips for more stabilization.  These are 14" long and about 3/4" wide. 

This is the diagram for the roof, again this is NOT TO SCALE.





The outline of the roof is drawn.

I've drawn the score line.  That's the peak of the roof.  You only score it, don't cut through, don't worry if you do I'll show you a fix later on.

Ignore the lines drawn on the sides in this picture and the rest.  I will explain later.






Cut the roof out.

Begin to follow the diagram drawing the lines in.












The next lines are 3/8" long.












Draw in the 1/4" lines next.















The center of the 15 3/8" side is 7 11/16".  Mark that at the edge and measure and mark again farther up on the foam core.










Measure that center line you drew to 7 1/2" long.

Now, connect the lines as shown in the picture.









Cut the score line at the peak.

Cut out the dormer hole.
















O.K. now you can draw the lines on the sides.

Turn the roof over and  measure 1/2" away from the sides.  This is the edge of the room box.





Remember, when I said don't worry if you cut through on a score line?  I didn't cut through but I made a measuring mistake and did not want to waste this piece of foam core.

I cut the front part of the roof off and cut the right size for the front.

I placed the two pieces together and glued card stock onto the foam core and I'm back in business.






It's going pretty good.  Like I said this is my second try and second day.  Once I figured the dormer and made a few compromises it worked out fine.







This is the diagram for the dormer roof.  This is NOT TO SCALE.





Follow the diagram above for the measurements.

My piece of foam core is 4 3/8" x 7 9/16".

The center of the 7 9/16" side is 3 23/32".  Mark that at top and bottom and draw a center line.  That's a score line, the peak of the dormer roof.






I've made marks on the side, 3/4" up from the bottom and 1/8" on either side of the center mark.











Connect the marks to make the triangle.












Cut the dormer roof out.














Turn the dormer roof over.

Measure and mark a line 1/4" away from the angled sides.











We are going to bevel this edge to fit into the dormer hole.

The secret to doing this is the first cut.
Cut along the line, not through.












Cut the bevel by following the line you have all ready cut.  Keep your blade point on the table.  Don't cut any of the foam core that's facing the table.

If you think your blade is dull put a new one in.  A sharp blade will help you cut more accurately.






There's the bevel.













Here's the dormer roof ready to be glued in.












Glue the dormer roof into the hole.














Side view of the dormer roof.

Be sure you aren't gluing the dormer roof to the door wall.











Let the dormer roof dry.

I have not glued the whole roof onto the room box.  I want to be able to get to everything so the roof won't be glued on for awhile.








I hope some of you make this journey with me.  I haven't made a room box in years.  I'm looking through catalogs and magazines trying to come up with things to make for you.

In the mean time I will put flooring in.

I have an idea about how to wall paper the room box.  I'm thinking about cutting out all the pieces of the room box and wall papering them and then gluing them into the room box.  What do you think?


Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . .

Just Keep Making Minis!

Kris




Friday, March 22, 2019

1 INCH SCALE BED WITH FAUX CANING - How to make a 1 inch scale dollhouse bed with faux caning.




I have saved this picture for a few years hoping to make the bed.  I have finally gotten around to making it this month.
The headboard and footboard have caning in them.  Although I have made caned furniture in miniature I did not want to go into that here.  I will show you later what I used to make my bed look like it was caned.




This is the Shabby Chic Bed made from the tutorial on the blog.  I am making a twin bed so you can use the mattress from that tutorial for this bed, too.
By changing the measurements you can make this bed into a full size bed, just make the headboard a little wider for what you need.
My headboard is a little wide for a normal twin bed.  Again, you can change these measurements to fit your room size.





For the caning I used waste canvas, 14 count.

I painted it using acrylic craft paint, you could use spray paint.









Here are the patterns for the headboard, footboard and the patterns for cutting the waste canvas.  Follow the instructions for RE-SIZING THE PATTERNS from the "Things to do, Things to see" list at the left side of the blog.  I would print them out onto card stock so tracing around them would be easier.









Trace the patterns onto mat board, 3 times.










I am going to use my scroll saw to cut these out.  So I have glued two pieces of mat board together and traced.  I have also traced another set onto a single layer of mat board.

You can cut out the three layers using a craft knife.  When you have finished glue two headboards together and two footboards together.  Use tacky glue for gluing.




To cut out the center of the headboard I first cut a hole in the center.  I removed my blade and put the mat board under the hold down.  I put the blade back in and cut the center out.  Remove the blade to remove the mat board.  Put the blade back in and cut around the outside of the headboard.









Looky, Looky what I have.  I was very generously gifted with a new cutting mat!!  It was so nice I was saving it for when I was taking pictures for the blog.  I forgot to get it out, it's out now.  I really didn't like using the craft knife for the first time but that's what it's for, itsn't it?  I was trying to figure out how old my grey mat is and I know I bought it before my last child was born, she's 28 so it's older than that.  Thanks so much for the gift, I really appreciate it.









After you have finished cutting you should have two sets.  One set is two layers of mat board glued together and the other set is only one layer.







I am adding something to this bed that I did not on the Shabby Chic bed.  I want to mortise in the side boards to make the bed more sturdy.

This is the headboard.  Measure 1/8" in from the sides; 5/8" up from the bottom; the slot is 1/2" long.

Cut the slot at least 1/16" wide.  Do not cut through.  Cut down to the next layer of mat board.





This is the footboard.  Measure 1/8" in from the sides; 5/8" up from the bottom; the slot is 1/2" long.

Cut the slot at least 1/16" wide.
This slot you cut through.










Cut the side boards for the bed.  The strips are 1/2" wide and 6 5/8" long, cut two.

I used a square to make sure I had square ends to keep the bed nice and square.



Try your side boards for fit.  Trim out more mat board if needed.

Do Not Glue In, Yet.










Use the pattern to cut the waste canvas.  I put my pattern on the diagonal to get the caned look.













Use tacky glue to glue the waste canvas onto the single layer footboard.












Glue the doubled layer of mat board on with the waste canvas sandwiched between.











So you have one side a little thicker than the other.

The single layer will be facing the mattress.









I experimented with the headboard first to see if the waste canvas could pass for caning.  I was pleased with the results.  This process was  not photographed.

Trace and cut out the headboard waste canvas using the pattern.  Glue this to the SINGLE LAYER headboard.  Glue the doubled layer headboard on top making sure the slots are showing.




When you are looking at the bed finished the doubled layers will be facing you.  The single layers will be facing a wall (that's the headboard) and the single layer of the footboard will be facing the end of the mattress.





I used card stock to veneer the cut edges of the bed.

I had to use a diagonal cut for the headboard.

I cut this a proud 1/8" wide.  Cutting the strip 5/32" was too wide.  You can measure the thickness of the head and footboards to check this for yourself.







I used tacky glue to glue the card stock strips onto the edge of the bed.













I also covered the bottom edge of the bed.















So far, so good.










As I mentioned earlier you can use spray paint to paint the whole bed.  I did not.
For my sample I cut the waste canvas, placed it onto paper and painted with acrylic craft paint.  I turned the canvas over and painted again.  I used a "T" pin to poke through the paint in the holes.  I painted heavy to give the canvas some thickness.





Before you paint please sand the edges to take the sharpness off.  I sanded around the inside edge and around the outside edge of the bed.

Since your canvas is all ready glued in we are going to paint it all together.




I painted the canvas first on the foot board getting it to look the way I wanted.  I ONLY poked through the large holes in the canvas and left the others.  That doesn't mean I covered them in on purpose I just left them the way they were.








This is a sample of waste canvas sprayed with spray paint.

Try it out to see which you would like to use.


I painted two to three light coats of paint on the mat board.  Let the paint really dry before you repaint.  This is after all paper and you are making it wet and it soaks through.  Don't rush this.

After that I sanded lightly and gave the mat board a nice smooth last coat of paint.






I've missed a couple of pictures here, sorry.

To hold the mattress you need to cut two more strips of mat board.  These are 1/2" wide and 6 3/8" long.

Use tacky glue to glue the new strips to the sideboards.  Center these strips leaving a 1/16" on each end.





This picture shows the new strips glued to the side boards.  The cut edge of the new strip is glued to the side board so that it doesn't show on the outside of the bed.  Let this dry.
Glue the side boards into the head and footboards.  Square up the bed and Let this dry.

To give the bed more stability I glued two wide strips of mat board onto the sideboards.

Measure between the sideboards, on the inside.






I cut two strips of mat board and glued them to the side boards.

Let this dry.

Yes, I could have substituted one large piece instead of gluing these and the second strips to the side boards.  Your choice.







I sprayed a couple of coats of satin finish on the bed, the waste canvas, too.

You are now ready to dress your new bed.












Have fun, Expand of it, make it better,
Just Keep Making Minis!


Talk to you later, Kris