Sunday, September 14, 2014

PREVIEW



It's taken me 7 days but I did it.  Can you find it?  I spy with my little eye . . . .

This is why I do the blog.  I love making things, I don't do that much making anymore.  When I made room boxes I made everything and everything was out on my table!












Here it is.
















Insides, too.












Judi helped with the measurements and I went online to check out other things.  It might not be all just so but I think it's "good enough for a town this big".  (That's a saying around here.)







I have got to make another to get the step by step pictures.  I did not know whether this was going to work out.  Everything was a trial in one way or another.


This is the bottle I used for the body of the washer.  Look closely, it's the round pills, look in the lower right corner, 100 coated tablets.  They cost $2.48 at Wal-Mart.
















This is what I used for the tub inside.  This comes in a box.  It costs 98 cents at Wal-Mart.

I dreaded drilling all the holes in the tub.  When looking online at pictures I noticed no holes.  How did the water get out????  Well, duh Kris, no spinning for centrifugal force, the water drains out, that's why there is a wringer!  So used to modern conveniences.

You will need a piece of wire about a 1/16 inch in diameter.  Black if you can get it.  This is the drain hose.


I explained about this wire in "How to make a faucet planter and daisies" tutorial.  It's house wiring, it is in a white or yellow covering with other wires, it's 12/2 with ground.  Home Depot will have it and you can have them cut you about a foot.  You can use the rest for other projects.






1/4 inch dowel.

















This is the glue I used for gluing the plastics together.  I buy this from Hobby Builders.

















This is a glue I know you can get at the stores.  Joann Swanson recommends it as being very, very good.  I would try this before ordering the stuff from Hobby Builders.  The reason I don't use it is because it's so thick.














Tooth picks, I have bamboo skewers on the table, too but I think I could substitute with tooth picks.












A couple of little nails and an 1/8 hole punch.











Make yourself a quilling tool if you haven't got one.  Use a piece of dowel and a large needle.  Push the needle into the end of the dowel and snip off the top of the needle's eye.









This is the finish I used, I get it at Wal-Mart.



















Tomorrow is Monday and I will begin to make another wringer/washer and take the step by step pictures for you.  I just was excited to show you what I have so far.

TTUL  Kris




Friday, September 5, 2014

Got another question???

I had some time and I made a couple of pieces of furniture between the quarts and pints . . .  tried to log into www.cdhm.org and Google couldn't find it?????

E-mail me at camceiling@frontiernet.net  if you know anything about that????   Maybe they are just working on the site???

Kris

P.S.  I am going to be working on the wringer/washer next week, probably will take a couple of weeks to do.  Not promising this is going to be an easy project to do, but we will have one to do!


Friday, August 15, 2014

Hi Guys,

I haven't gotten all of the pictures I need to make the washer, yet, so I'm off schedule for this month.  The project will take some head scratching so I need lead time to get it made and have it ready for you.  In the mean time my husband's garden is coming in!!  I've processed 150 pounds of tomatoes, put up over 50 pints of corn, that was 2 batches and the green beans are ready this weekend.  I have more juices to make, a second batch of green beans and I will make pickles, too.  All of this amounts to no tutorial this month, I am sorry!!!!  He grows it and even helps with the processing!! So, I can't put him off.  I hope you all understand.  I haven't been able to make new furniture for the site in a couple of weeks, either.  Excuses, Excuses . . .  I will be up and running next month and should have figured out the washer for you.

Remember, if  you have questions e-mail me at camceiling@frontiernet.net and if you want to sent me pictures of your finished tutorials send those to the same address.

Talk to you all later,
Kris

Monday, July 21, 2014

I need your help, again????

I want next month's tutorial to be a ROUND WRINGER WASHER, MAYTAG OR SPEED QUEEN.

I want a round washer, not a square one.  It's on legs with the wringer on top.

I need pictures and measurements.

Chrispy Critter has sent me a fantastic idea for making one.  I had wanted to make one for years!!! Just hadn't figured an easy way to go about it, Chris sent me a gem.

I've been on the net and can't get any response, DUH . . ."I'm a miniaturist and I want measurements for a wringer washer."  There are collectors out there (some have buildings full of them) but they think I'm crazy.  I have searched the net for a long time for dimensions.  I've missed out on a couple at used appliance stores around me.  The best thing would be if I could find one to see for myself and measure it.

Does anyone have access to one of these washers?????

Contact me at:      camceiling@frontiernet.net


Thanks,
Kris

Here's a picture of what I am looking for.






Judi has contacted me, she has one, raised eight kids washing their clothes in it and it still works.  Says  a lot about they way things used to made!!

Thanks to all of you that researched for me!!!!

Friday, July 18, 2014

MAKING A 1 INCH SCALE WINDOW FROM MAT BOARD - How to make a 1 inch scale dollhouse window from mat board.



What's doors without windows?

Since I showed you how to make doors last time I thought I would show you how to make a simple window this time. Remember, once you know how to make the window you can change the measurements to suit your needs.

These are some windows I am making for a kitchen I am making.





A note to Chris . . . . I will make the wringer washer in the next tutorial.  I had these planned for July. Chris of Chrispy Critter sent me a wonderful way to make an old wringer washer and I am going to share that with you next time.





This is the kitchen.  I used 1/2" foam core for the walls.  I used toothpicks to "dowel" the walls together and the walls to the floor.

My husband supplied the flooring for me.












I've been painting, sanding, painting, sanding, painting, sanding, . . . . .









I've slipped my finished windows in.  I don't have the apron, (that's a piece of casing that is put under the sill) because these windows are over the kitchen counter.
There's a half round window that will be in the center.






On to our window.

I checked with the Hobby Builder's catalog and there were different sizes of window openings.  I chose 2 15/16"" x 5 1/4".  I rounded off the measurements.

I drew that on a piece of paper.

I know the picture says 2 7/8", it's wrong.





I have now drawn the frame, that's the 1/8" lines I added to the opening.

Notice that the sides go all the way to the top and the top fits between the sides.














I've added another line representing the sill at the bottom of the drawing.









I've added this picture of my little paper cutter.  Paper cutters with a sliding cutter are available in larger models and I recommend the larger models if they have some kind of a "stop" or good markings to measure narrow strips.  A "stop" would be good so that you could fix it to cut the same width over and over.
The cutter doesn't cut through but I can finish cutting through with my craft knife.






We are going to build the frame first.

Cut strips of mat board 3/8" wide.  I've cut 4 that are about 18" long.









I cut my strips with my little table saw from Micro Mark.  You can use a larger paper cutter with a sliding cutter as I showed above or use a mat board cutting system.  I have seen mat board cutting systems at art stores or arts and crafts stores like Micheal's.








Use yellow carpenter's glue to glue one piece onto the other.  I had 4 pieces of mat board, now I have 2 pieces that are double thick.






I've measured and cut two pieces 5 1/4" long.

If you are doing multiple windows it's very important that they are all the same size.  Make some sort of jig that allows you to make the same cut over and over again.  Just measuring, marking and cutting over and over won't be good enough.  There will be slight differences that will add up to different window sizes.







That sounds like another tutorial, doesn't it?











Cut the top 2 5/8" long.

















Use yellow carpenter's glue to glue the top between the sides.












Showing a picture of the top between the sides.








I've added more to the drawing.
I've divided the frame in half between the top and the sill.
Centered a 3/16" wide piece on that center mark.  Drew another 3/16" wide piece at the top and a 1/4" wide piece at the bottom.  For the sides of the windows I drew more 3/16" wide pieces.









I also drew the sill and I will explain that now.




In the door tutorial I explain how to make simple casing, review that to make the casing for the window.

Set the casing onto the frame, set the edge on the second piece of mat board leaving a 1/16" showing, that's called the "reveal".

Measure from the inside of the frame to the outside edge of the casing, also add an 1/8" so the sill will extend an 1/8" beyond the edge of the casing.  I couldn't show me measuring because I had to hold the camera.






My sill is going to be 5/8" wide.  Cut 2 pieces of mat board that width and 4 1/2" to 5" long.












Glue those two pieces together.









I have the sill cut to length.

When I measured the width of the casing added onto the frame I added an 1/8" extra to extend beyond the casing.
I doubled that measurement, 2 sides, and added that to the width of the opening between the long sides of the frame, 2 5/8".
All that adds up to 3 13/16".









Do you remember how to find the center without dividing?

For this piece I measured from each side 2" toward the center and made a mark.









Now, you can divide that distance by eye or you can measure with your ruler to mark the center.






From the center measure toward the ends 1 5/16" (that's half of 2 5/8"), and mark.

Measure 3/8" from one long side, that's the depth of the frame.  Do this at the 1 5/16" marks at each end.

That should leave you with a 1/4" to the other edge of the sill.  Draw a line to the ends of the sill.
The "X's" are what you will cut out, that's waste.








I've got the sill cut out.












Glue the sill into the bottom of the frame, use the yellow carpenter's glue.












I'm using my Chopper again for the mitres.

I start by cutting a 45 degree angle on one end of my casing.








For the length I place the mitred end at the top, leaving a 1/16" on either side of the cut.  Remember the "reveal"?

Now, mark the casing at the bottom on the top of the sill.







I cut another the same length.

This is where cutting multiples comes up again.

Figure the length you need, cut those strips and then just cut the mitres on one end one after the other, all the same size.








Showing what the casing looks like at the back.










Some days I'm a whiz at cutting this piece.  You know, I had to cut this 7 times for the kitchen above and didn't have to redo one cut!  For this tutorial I had to cut this piece 3 times.

Measure from the tips of the casing . .

Or






Turn the frame over and place a strip of casing that's all ready got one mitre cut and draw a line where the piece ends at the other side.

Cut on the line you made.








This is another note about cutting multiples.  When you have the right measurement cut the strips, both ends will have straight cut, then you will cut the mitres on each end.









So, I've glued the third piece into place.

That's why when you make casing you make extras for the days you just aren't going to be a whiz at cutting mitres.







This is a piece of acrylic, it's a 1/16" thick.  I buy poster frames from Wal-Mart for this stuff.  I can score it with my craft knife and brake it apart on the line I scored.  I cut the plastic covering to get it apart.  Don't strip off the plastic covering.  Acrylic is very unforgiving, leave it on for protection against marks, glue and paint.









Score the acrylic the width of the opening of your frame, 2 5/8".










I ran my craft knife over the line 4 or 5 times, then I bent the acrylic and it broke on the line.  I set it back down to cut the plastic covering with my craft knife.









I measured my drawing for the height of the window.

We are going to build the window onto the acrylic.











Cut two pieces the same size.















Do a trial fit, trim if necessary.  The acrylic should be snug.










I've cut strips of mat board 3/16" wide and 1/4" wide.

Cut enough for both sides of the window.








I am using tacky glue to glue the mat board onto the plastic covering.

Lay the 1/4" wide piece onto the bottom of one of the pieces of acrylic and mark.

Cut the mat board to that length.









I've got one side glued on and I have applied glue to the other side of the acrylic.












I know I am gluing to a plastic covering, not the acrylic.  By the time you have all the mat board glued on, you have painted the window and you have glued the window into the frame those pieces of mat board aren't going anywhere.











Showing how the acrylic is sandwiched between the mat board.











I've glued on a 3/16" strip to the top of the acrylic and now I am marking for the sides.  The sides will use the 3/16" strips, also.












When you apply the tacky glue make sure you apply the glue onto the edge of the previous strip so the pieces of mat board are glued together.








The bottom sash is done.

This is the only one that has the 1/4" strip of mat board at the bottom.













This is the top sash done, it uses only 3/16" strips all around.












Glue the top and bottom sashes together with yellow carpenter's glue.  Overlap the top of the bottom sash onto the bottom of the top sash.







The bottom sash should be in front of the top sash.

Do a trial fit to see if it all fits as it should.










I paint my jamb separately from the sashes.  I paint 2 coats and then sand using 220 grit sand paper, paint again, sand with 300 grit and paint a finish coat.  Use your craft knife to cut at the sides of the mat board around the sashes.  You will probably have to run the knife a couple of times, then carefully lift a corner of the protective plastic and peel it off.  I then glue the sashes into the frame.

Measure the width of the window from the outside edge of the casing to the other outside edge of casing, on this window that's 3 9/16".  Cut a piece of casing that length.  After you have glued the window into your wall glue the strip of casing to the wall right under the sill, that's the apron.

I don't usually do houses so I don't have to worry about the other side of the window but it will be finished just like the inside for a frame house with wood siding.  A brick house won't  have the apron under the sill.



If you have any questions e-mail me at:     camceiling@frontiernet.net

If you have pictures of your finished tutorials send them to the address above.



Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . .

JUST KEEP MAKING MINIS

TTUL  Kris