Saturday, November 21, 2015

1 INCH SCALE MID-CENTURY T.V. STAND TUTORIAL -- How to make a mid-century T.V. stand for your dollhouse.

Oh no, my rabbit ate my homework!

One of the cats knocked my blog notes onto the floor and Ginger ate a good portion of the paper.

I am making a stand for the portable T.V. I made last month.  These will go into the 2015 Creatin' Contest room box that Hobby Builders has.

The sliding doors on the backside of the room box reminded me of a walk out basement.  These basements were (and still are) popular in the 1970's.  People fixed them up for family rooms.

The original stand came right out of our basement when I was a teenager.

The stand was metal and a brass color.  There were wheels on the bottom of the legs so you could move your portable T.V. around.

I am going to use Houseworks casters.  They are available from Hobby Builders.

There are 12 in a package for $8.35.

I am using these because of the tiny wire at the top.  Since I am going to use 1/16 inch diameter dowels for the legs I need a very tiny hole to drill.

The next thing I am using is this wire mesh for the book rack.
This is available from Michael's, Activ-Wire Mesh, $5.99 or Jo-Ann Fabrics, Activ-Wire Mesh, $6.99.  Ask a clerk for the location, I found mine in the glues section but it may also be in the clays, like Fimo.  Hobby Lobby carries the Activ-Wire Mesh but in a 24 inch by 10 feet size for railroad modelers.  The price is $26.99

I am going to use 1/16 inch diameter dowels for the frame of the T.V. stand.  You may also use skewers from the grocery store.

Cut four dowels 2 inches long.

These are the legs.

Cut two dowels 1 7/8 inches long.

These are the book rack dowels.

Cut two dowels 7/8 inches long.

These are the spacers for the sides.

You can use two pieces of mat board glued together or one piece of 3/32 inch basswood for the top shelf.  It is cut 1 7/8 inches long by 1 1/16 inches wide.

I am going to make tiny dowels  from some toothpicks.

These are for gluing the frame together.

Butt gluing just won't do, the stand would be very fragile; the dowels will make it much more sturdy.

Put the toothpick into the chuck of the Dremel.

Use 180 or 220 grit sand paper to sand the toothpick down.

I've sanded the toothpick.

The dowel you are making must be at least half the size of the original toothpick.

Mark your legs at 1 1/4 inches.

Use a "T" pin to mark the hole that is to be drilled.  Don't press too hard or the dowel will split.

Use your drill, (from Hobby Builders) to drill a hole at the marks.  Don't worry if you drill through.

Mark the center of the ends of the 7/8 inch long spacer dowels.  Use your drill to drill a hole in each end.

Using yellow carpenter's glue to glue the wood together.

I've got glue in the hole and I have inserted the tiny dowel I made.  Trim off the excess dowel.

Do this for the other end and the other dowel.

Dry fit the dowel, trim the tiny dowel so that the surfaces touch.

Put glue into the hole in the leg and insert the tiny dowel and press together.

Glue the other leg on.

Both sides are done.

Measure and mark one dowel at 3/16 inch, this is the top shelf and at 1 1/2 inch, this is for the FRONT of the book shelf.

Mark with a "T" pin and then drill the holes.

This is one leg done on one side.

This is the front of the stand.  Make a mirror image for the other side.

I measured the leg for the back of the stand, do you see the tiny dowels sticking out?
The top mark is at 3/16 inch for the top shelf.  The bottom mark is at 1 inch, this is for the BACK of the book rack.

Here are the two sides, mirror images.

**At this time drill out the holes at the bottom of the legs for the casters.

I laid my top shelf onto the top of a side and marked where the tiny dowels were.  Do you see my marks?  I marked with a "T" pin and drilled the holes.

Dry fit the shelf first to see that everything is level.  If not, cut the tiny dowel off, remeasure and re-drill the hole.  Put a new tiny dowel in.
Don't glue the shelf on, yet.

I trimmed the wire mesh to fit the book rack dowels, they are 1 7/8 inches long.
I bent the wire mesh along a sharp edge to get a nice sharp line.
There should be 3/4 inch beyond each side of the bend.

Showing my angle.

**At this time drill out the holes at each end of the book rack dowels.

I am showing how the edges look after I trimmed.

To glue the wire mesh to the wood dowel I used Crafter's Pick The Ultimate! glue.  It works very well for this, I was very happy with the results which was that the wire mesh stayed glued to the wood dowel.

Apply glue to the wire mesh and press onto the wood dowels.

You will be able to press the wire mesh ends around the dowel after the glue has dried.

Let this dry.

Glue the top shelf onto one side.

When the book rack has dried glue it onto the side.

Glue the other side onto the assembly.

You can glue on some beads to the top of the legs.  I added some yellow glue to finish off the tops.

This is totally optional.

I told you to drill the holes for the casters earlier in the tutorial.  I didn't and had to drill them after everything was put together.  My stand held together with all of the moving around, that's why I dowel my joints.

Use The Ultimate! glue to glue the casters into the holes at the bottom of the legs.

I used spray paint to paint my stand.

Close up picture of the stand.

The books are in and we are ready to move into the family room.

I hope you try this out.  The doweling isn't hard to do but you do need to be precise with your markings.

Remember, if you have pictures of the finished tutorials please send them to me at:

If you have questions please use the same address.  I can not answer you from the comment section.  I see questions in there but I can't find your e-mail address from your avatar most of the time.

Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . .
Just Keep Making Minis!

Talk to you later, Kris

Tuesday, November 3, 2015

I'm Back from Detroit.

Hi,  I took some time to visit my daughter and her husband in Detroit, Michigan.  They were transferred there almost a year ago.  They are expecting their first child and MY first grandchild!  I'm going to be 60 in  December and I thought it would never happen but she's doing it.  We are soooo happy.
She took me to a miniatures store near her, Miniature Makers Workshop.  Very nice store and the area is very lucky to have a brick and mortar store.  Of course I went in and introduced myself and they had never heard of me but turn that frown upside down and tell them about the 1 inch minis blog!!  They did have copies of American Miniaturist so I showed them some articles that are printed from the blog.  I hope I have some new followers.  The store has lots of things to choose from and I had a hard time until I found the teapots.

I bought these three teapots.  I love the shape.  The middle one is a lovely shade of PURPLE, not blue.

The clerk didn't know who made them.

Do you know??

And this is Bear, their really and for true alley cat from Chicago.  They got him as a tiny, tiny kitten and he has grown . . . a bit.

Just thought I let you know what I was up to.  Got to clean up the CDHM site and make some new furniture.  I hope to have some news about 1 inch minis for you all at the beginning of next year, something I think all of you will like.

TTUL  Kris

I have had e-mails about the "Follow Me By E-Mail" option on the right side of the blog, it's not working??  I signed up for it to see what it's all about???  As most of you know I don't know anything about how this all works and blogger doesn't talk back to my questions.  We'll see????

It's been a couple of days and I haven't had an e-mail from my blog, does anyone have any ideas??
It's been suggested that you check your spam folder for notices.  No notices what so ever for me??


Monday, October 19, 2015

1 INCH SCALE MID-CENTURY PORTABLE T.V. TUTORIAL - How to make a mid-century portable T.V. for your dollhouse.

Continuing on my theme of mid-century furnishings I am making the portable T.V. I actually had when I was first married.

Cut a strip of mat board 3/4 inches wide.

From that strip cut 2 pieces  1 13/16 inches long (top and bottom) and 2 pieces  1 1/8 inches long (sides).

I will be using yellow carpenter's glue for all of the gluing.

Glue the top onto a side.

The top is glued over the edge of the side as in the picture.

Glue the other side to the top.

Glue the bottom to the edges of the sides.

Cut 4 pieces of mat board 1/2" x 1/2".

Cut these pieces diagonally in half.

These pieces are braces for the box. Glue them in the corners.  I left a little over a 1/16 inch of the box's edge.  That space will be for the front and back to be glued in the box.

Cut 2 pieces from mat board 1 1/8" x 1 3/16".  These are the front and back.

Apply glue to the inside of the box and on the corner braces.

Slip the front into the box.

Do this for the back, too.

Cut a strip of mat board 13/16" wide.

Cut 4 pieces from that strip 1 3/8" long.

Apply glue to 3 pieces.

Stack the pieces together and let dry.

This piece will be glued to the back of the box.

Start sanding the box.  I didn't sand the front.  I sanded the back and the sides.

Another view.

I also sanded half of the top so it will slope to the back.

Another view.

A view of the front.

Get the stack of mat board you set aside to dry.

Draw a line around the top and sides about 1/8 " from the edge.

Use your craft knife to cut a diagonal edge on the top and sides.

Showing another way to trim off the edge.

The edges are trimmed off.

Sand the edges smooth and round them a bit.

Another view.

Center this piece from side to side on the back of the box.

The piece is not centered from top to bottom.  There is more space at the top than bottom.

Another view.

There are little feet on the bottom of the T.V.

I used the tip of a toothpick for the feet.

Cut the toothpick a little shorter than the width of the T.V.
(I trimmed my length after the picture was taken.)

Cut the toothpick in half length-wise.

Glue the feet onto the bottom of the T.V.

Use Nancy's pattern to trace the frame onto a piece of mat board.

This is Nancy's pattern for the screen frame.  In the "Things to do, Things to see" list at the left of the blog there are directions, "RE-SIZING THE PATTERNS".  Thank you, Nancy.

After you have traced the pattern use a ruler to make marks inside the frame.  The marks should measure 3/32" away from the edge of the pattern.

I did not put this on the pattern.  I find that the pattern becomes difficult to handle when it is cut so thin.

Fill in the lines.

Cut out the center.  When you cut the center out slant your craft knife so the frame has an angle.  This will shorten the sanding time for you.

Sand the inner edge of the frame round.

Cut the frame out.

Sand the outside edge of the frame round.

To keep from bending the frame when you sand use a piece of mat board as a brace.


Trace onto mat board the center of the frame.

This will be your screen.

Hint: Make a mark on a corner of the frame and on the corresponding corner of the screen.  This will help in matching the pieces together.

Cut out.  Make two and glue together.

My two pieces are glued together.

You will sand the screen round.

Sanding the screen round.

Trial fitting, no glue, yet.

See my mark on the corner of the frame.  I've marked the corner on the underside of the screen.

Glue the frame to the front of the T.V.

Start painting the T.V.  I used a mixture of paints, a little darker than ivory.

The old T.V.s had a odd color green screen with a silvery look to them.

I mixed up a color and started painting the screen.

Painting the screen.

I've been painting and sanding the T.V.

I made a holder for my T.V. using a small dowel or kabob stick from the grocery store.  I cut a small circle of 3/16" basswood, drilled a hole in it's center.  I glued the stick into the hole.  Let this dry.

I then glued a piece of paper onto the circle of basswood, this is important.  Glue the holder to the T.V.  When you want to remove the holder you gently pull it off leaving the paper behind.  If you don't glue the paper on you will be pulling off part of the T.V.

Satisfied with the finishes so I've glued the screen into the frame.

On the plastic cabinet of the original T.V. there were faux wood panels.
I found these samples at Lowe's in the stain and paint department.

You can use anything else you would like or leave it plain.  Wood grain contact paper would also work.

This is the back of the sample.

I cut a strip of the sample the width I wanted.  I left a little of the sides showing.

I've got a gold edge on the faux wood panel.

I did that by dipping the panel into  gold paint I have in my lid.

Spread the paint out to get the width of line you like.

I applied a couple of coats of acrylic finish onto the T.V. before I glued the panels on.

After the finish is dry glue the faux wood panels onto the top and sides.

I used cross-stitch paper for the sound panel.

This paper comes in colors or you can paint the paper the color you want.

Cut the size I have here, 10 by 4 holes.

I put a gold edge around the sound panel, also.

I am using the tear drop shapes from this punch for the handle holders on the top of the T.V.

When I made the first T.V. I used Fimo for a lot of things.  I used Fimo for the knobs, handle and handle holders.  You can do the same if you prefer.

I used a 1/4" punch for the round knob at the top.

There are the tear drop handle holders on the top of the T.V.

There is the round knob at the top.

There are two other knobs, you can use straight pins for those.

I've punched out my tear drops.

I used 4 tear drops for each holder.

I glued them together with yellow carpenter's glue.

Here are my 1/4" circles punched out.

I glued 4 together and 2 together.

That's Digger's tail swishing everything around on the table!

Cut the 2 layer circle less than in half.

Glue the less than half circle onto the center of the whole circle.

I am painting the handle holders, circle knob and the other two knobs gold.

These other two knobs are from an old dog brush.  I was loosing the metal pins from the rubber holder and noticed the unique shape and pulled out the rest and saved them. They make good push pins for a bulletin board, too.

Showing another picture of the knobs.

Glue the sound panel on.

Drilling the holes for the small knobs.

On the original I used Fimo and made indentions for the fingers.

I am using card stock for the handle today.  I used at strip 1/8" wide by 3/4" long.  I glued 3 layers together and bent it a bit.

To hold the handle I cut the tip off a toothpick and glued the flat end to the inside of the handle.

Paint the handle to match the body of the T.V.

Glue the round knob on and push the small knobs into the holes.

Here's the T.V. on the stand we are going to make next month.

You can leave the handle off, it makes it more comfortable for the cat to lay on top of the T.V.

All my cats laid on the top of the T.V., it was warm.

Here's the T.V. with the handle.

Cleo, my cat had to make do with handle.

Another view.

You can drill a hole in the back and glue your electric cord in if you want.  I used crochet thread painted brown.
I have been asked to make this T.V. for a long time.  The T.V. is from my First Apartment room box. I had to figure out how to substitute mat board for the scrap of wood I used for the original.  I am happy the way it all turned out.  I hope some of you have a scene that you can use this in.

Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . .
Just Keep Making Minis!!