Monday, December 3, 2018

1 INCH SCALE "METAL" SHELF MADE FROM CARD STOCK - How to make a 1 inch scale doll house "metal" shelf from card stock.

I decided to make a metal looking shelf this month.  This could be used in a bathroom or if you painted it black with maybe marble shelves you could put it in a dining room.

I wanted to laminate quilling paper together as I have before but not use a form.  Making the form can be tedious and might keep some of you from making the shelf.  I tried another way not using a form but it didn't work out.

I went to my Brother Scan and Cut, it's like the Cricut Maker.

Finally, I have something I can ship you in an envelope.  My other things have been over a 1/4" thick and I have to send them out as parcels at $3.50 a piece and I really dislike doing that to you.

At the end of the tutorial I will have the information for the getting the curly parts.

You will notice that I have a textured surface on the shelves.  I am going to show you how to do that first.

I used heavyweight poster board, the shiny side up to paint on.
I used a metallic paint, a very light gold.  I sponged it on the shiny surface.  This paint is shiny when it is dry, it has a slick surface.  Let this dry.

This is the poster board that I buy from Michaels.

Showing the paint I used.  This paint does dry with a slick surface.  This helps when I coat it with another layer of paint.  The new layer won't dry out so fast.

Way too much paint!!!

Way too much paint!!!!

I've brushed off the extra paint but the paint is still wet.

That's important, the paint must be wet.

I applied plastic wrap onto the wet surface and wrinkled it up.

I pressed it flat.

I pressed it flat some more with the roll of plastic wrap.

Leave this for at least ten minutes.

After ten minutes peel off the plastic wrap.

Set this aside to dry.

I thought maybe I could make a marble looking sample this way, too.

I painted this piece of poster board with a light grey acrylic craft paint.  This paint doesn't have slick surface when dry. Let dry.

I painted this piece with spots of grey.

 After the grey paint is dry I applied a layer of black paint, this was also acrylic craft paint.  Being that it was acrylic craft paint I had to work fast and dip my loaded brush into water to keep the paint wet.  I could have used an extender to keep the paint wet but this was only an experiment.

I ran out of plastic wrap and started using shopping bags, this one is from Dollar General.

Let this dry ten minutes.

This is the all grey surface.

This is the spotted grey surface.

Again, this is the spotted grey surface.

I think if I had taken more time I could have gotten a passable faux marble for shelves.

Here are the parts to copy if  you have a digital cutting machine.  Follow the directions in the "Things to do, Things to see" list at the left side of the blog.

With some help from my son-in-law, Neal, I have the parts cut out.

I glued three of the top curved pieces together.

Even though you see only four of the legs on the right side of the picture I decided to use five layers per leg. There are five layers glued together for the bottom stand.

I am showing a sponge at the top right because I found that using a sponge was an efficient way of gluing the layers together.

I have the three layers of the top glued together.

The two bottom stands are glued together, five layers each.

The four legs are glued together, five layers each.

This is how they will be glued together.

I used my top to measure where the tops of the legs should be.

Do you see that the ends of the top are in the middle of the curve at the top of the leg?

I am using my cutting mat to help with placing the pieces.

I divided the bottom stand in half, see the pencil mark?  Tape the bottom stand down to the mat.  I taped it right under a line on the mat. 
Set the legs onto the bottom stand and glue with yellow carpenters glue.  I taped the top of the legs down so my cats wouldn't move things around.

Use the lines on the mat to make sure everything is even.

Leave this to dry.  I left mine overnight.

You will spend more time waiting on glue and paint to dry than you will actually spend putting the stand together.  Letting the glue dry will only save you headaches.

Pop the assembly off the mat.

Trying to show how thick the stack is.

This shelf is pretty sturdy after it's all done.

I am measuring the length of my bottom shelf, 2 5/16".

Your measurements may be different depending on the way you positioned your legs. 

I measured up from the bottom stand 1 1/8" and marked.

This is for the middle shelf.

Measure across, I am measuring 1 1/2" for the length of the middle shelf.

The top shelf will be 2" long.

I am going to use my little table saw from MicroMark.  This the first table saw I bought.  Although I did buy their bigger table saw because it's blade tips, I still use this saw all the time for cutting strips.

I don't think it cost much over $100.00 at the time that I bought it.  They do have sales.

I am going to cut the width of my shelves at 1 1/2" wide.

I am using one layer of mat board for my shelves because I am adding the heavy weight poster board on top to achieve the thickness I want.

I've got the shelves cut and the strip of gold painted poster board ready to cut and glue to the shelves.

Cut the poster board to fit the shelves and glue it to the shelves.

I used yellow carpenters glue for this.

Give the top and the leg assembly a first coat of paint.

Let dry.

For veneering the edge of the shelves I cut strips of PAPER, not card stock as I usually do.

The card stock will change the length of the shelves and we all ready have them cut.

Use yellow carpenters glue to glue the paper along the edge of the shelves.

Paint the edges and underneath gold.

After the paint is dry, very carefully and lightly sand, it's paper, lightly sand and apply another coat of gold paint on the edges.

Lightly sand the top and leg assemblies with 220 grit paper.

I want to remind you all that how you finish your miniature counts as much as how you assembled it.

You always sand after you paint the first coat.  Yes, you can paint a second coat but you sand after that and apply your final coat.  Just painting and repainting doesn't make the surface look better, it's in the sanding.

I carefully sanded the leg

Give everything another coat of paint and let it dry.

You can use tacky glue to glue the parts together since we are not gluing paper to paper but paint to paint.  I used yellow carpenters glue and it worked just fine.

Glue the bottom shelf into one of the leg assemblies.

I am using an engineer's square (MicroMark) to make sure the shelf is square.

Let this dry before you go to the next step.

Gluing the other side on.

The new side is against the mat.  I am doing this so that the shelf will be flush with the edge of the leg.

Let this dry.

Beginning to look like something.

Remember, I measured up 1 1/8" from the top of the bottom stand.

I cut the mat board 1 1/16" wide for a spacer.  (Why?  The mat board is 1/16" thick so I subtracted that from 1 1/8" and got 1 1/16".)

Score the mat board, fold it in half and use it to glue the middle shelf in.

Let this dry.

Letting everything dry.

Glue the top shelf onto the curly tops of the legs.  Let that dry a bit.  I turned the shelf upside down to the let the top shelf dry.
Glue the top onto the back of the shelf.

I placed the whole thing on it's back to let the top dry in place.

If you want you can spray a finish on the shelves.  This paint is shiny so I really don't have to.

Here is a side picture of the shelf.

I would have preferred to have glued everything together with no paint, I just like gluing paper to paper.  I wouldn't have the nice finish on the shelves, though.

You can glue it all together and then give it a couple of coats of spray paint depending on how you are going to decorate with it.

I can see it with a black wrought iron look and marble shelves, too.

United States shipping only.

I am going to be really elementary here, forgive me.

Send me a Long Self Addressed Envelope with $1.15 postage on it.

In your envelope send me two postage stamps for payment equal to $1.00.

I will send you back the parts you will need to make the shelf.

I am sending extra parts just in case.

 The parts will be folded in the paper.

Legs in one side.

Top and bottom stands in the other.

Kris Compas
3900 Shipman Cutoff Road
Bunker Hill, IL 62014

Have you checked the Follower's Gallery lately?  I've added some new pictures.  They are all quite inspiring and I hope to see more pictures of the finished tutorials.   to send pictures or ask questions.

I want to wish everyone a Very Merry Christmas!!

Until next year,

Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . .

Just Keep Making Minis!!


Monday, November 19, 2018


I have a follower that made the potato bin from wood.  She used her new Cricut Maker.  She say's she can cut basswood or balsa up to 3/32" thick.  That's so cool.  I think Santa is still accepting letters . . .


1 INCH SCALE WINGED HEADBOARD UPHOLSTERED BED - How to make a winged headboard upholstered bed for your dollhouse.

This is the finished bed.  I used a light weight linen to upholster the bed.

I've added the pillows and duvet cover.  I still have the pins in from steaming the duvet down.

I find it difficult to dress a miniature bed.  Finding the right colors, patterns and textures to mix is hard to do.  I will find the right mix but the size of pattern will always be off.  I asked my professional photographer son-in-law to help, he has a very good eye for these things.  This is what he came up with out of my many boxes of fabric.  I like it, Tigger is not too thrilled about it, though.

This is my chopper.  Look on (Hobby Builders) or
I found this to be the easiest and cheapest way to have you cut your legs.

If you all ready have a small miter saw you can use that, too.  I don't have mine anymore so I couldn't take a picture of it.

The legs are from 5/16" x 5/16" basswood.
Set the stop to 9/16".

Press down, not through, rotate the wood and press down, not through on all four sides.

You don't have too press hard.  Just keep rotating the wood.

You will cut through after a couple of rotations.

Cut four legs.

Draw a square on one end of the legs.

The square is roughly 1/16" away from the sides.

Use 220 grit sandpaper to sand down to the square on one end leaving the other end the original size.

I use 220 grit because I don't want this to get away from me.

Rotate the leg around until you have a nice taper.

Here are my legs.

Drill a hole in the center of the large end and glue a toothpick in.

I stained my legs and finished with a clear varnish.

This is the bed base/box spring.  Cut 4 layers of foam core 5 1/4" x 7" and glue them together using tacky glue.

Cut a strip of card stock and glue it to the cut edge of the bed base/box spring.

Use tacky glue to glue a strip of batting on the two long sides and one short side.  Leave one short side without batting.

I use Thermolam Plus, SEW IN.  I usually can find it at Walmart.

A word about fabric.  I usually go to independent quilting stores for my fabrics.  Yes, I occasionally buy from Joanns and Walmart.  I will buy 100% cotton or in this case 100% linen because it will glue.  Nothing is more frustrating than to use fabric that will not glue down because it has some kind of polyester in it.

To glue the fabric to the card stock I use glue stick.
Cut a strip of your fabric with enough extra to glue to the top and bottom of the bed base/box spring.
Apply the glue stick to the card stock end of the bed, in the middle.
Do not glue the fabric to the batting.  Bring the batting all the way around the bed and glue the fabric to the remaining card stock to finish.

This is a better picture of my glue.  Usually Walmart is cheaper than Michaels.

The end will be against the headboard so I didn't fold a hem.

This is by bottle of tacky glue.

(I should by this by the 5 gallon bucket.)

Apply the tacky glue to the bottom of the bed base/box spring.  Smear the glue.

Fold the edges over to glue down.

Cut the extra corner fabric out and glue the corners down.

The corner is glued down.

Top and bottom are done.

Cut a piece of card stock for the bottom of the bed base/box spring.

This should be about 1/4" smaller all around.

 I've applied glue stick to the card stock and pressed it onto my fabric.  The fabric is trimmed to leave extra all around to fold over.  The corners are cut out.

I've applied tacky glue to the edge of the card stock and folded the extra fabric over.

Apply tacky glue to one side of the bed base/box spring.

Smear the glue so there are no puddles.

Press this bottom cover onto the bottom.

Press all around to make sure you have good contact.

If your legs are finished you can glue them into the bottom.

Another picture of the leg in the bottom of the bed base/box spring.

Above are the back of the head board and the wings/side pattern.  Use the instructions on the left side of the blog to re-size the patterns.

 Above is the back cushion to the head board and the bed pillow patterns.  The large pattern is for the bed pillows and large accent pillows.

Above are the batting patterns for the head board cushion.

Trace the wing/side pattern onto foam core.

Trace twice and cut out two sides.

Trace the back onto a piece of foam core and cut out.

Here is the start of the headboard.

I have not glued anything together, yet.

I searched the Google Images for pictures of this headboard and this is how the majority were built.
The bed base/box spring was separate and different headboards were available to be attached.  That's why the headboard is sitting on the floor.
My legs will be in in the next pictures.

I am not going to depend on glue to hold this assembly together.  I am going to dowel the joints.

I dowel my upholstered furniture together, I know it's overkill but I do it anyway.
Use tacky glue and glue the sides to the back.
Drill into the sides and into the side of the back.

Cut some toothpicks in half and have some tacky glue ready.

Insert the glue into the holes.

Push the toothpicks into the holes, I use the end of my tweezers to push the toothpick flush with the side.

Do this on both sides.

Soften the curved inside edge of the foam core.

Don't soften the straight part where the mattress and box spring will be.

This is the upper part of the wing.

Use your side/wing pattern to cut the batting.

Cut a tiny extra on the curved side.

Use tacky glue to glue the batting to the inside of the wings.

Trim the batting even with the outside edge of the wing.

Cut the fabric for the wing 2 3/4" x 7 1/4".

Use tacky glue to glue about a 1/2" onto the inside of the back.

I have the back laying on my table, the straight bottom is on your left and the curved top is on your right.

This picture is showing the outside side of the headboard.

Forgive the black and white picture.  I did not take a picture of this crucial cut.

Ignore the arms.

To have fabric left to cover this little corner of the back/side you must cut the fabric like the picture.

I know the fabric is glued down but it's not dry, yet.

Put your scissors under the fabric and clip up toward the corner, not exactly all the way into the corner, just close to it.

If you make your cut like this you will have a tiny but noticeable triangle of foam core showing.

Yes, I forgot. I haven't made a wing chair in a while, use to be second nature, how soon I forget.

I did rip this off and fixed my mistake and then just plumb forgot to take the picture.

Now, cut notches into the fabric at the curved edge.

I've made a cut at the bottom of the wing.

Use tacky glue and start gluing down the fabric.

Glue the fabric down and cut out the extra fabric in the corner.

I've got the extra fabric cut out.

Glue the corner down.

I am doing the same thing with the bottom corner.

Both corners are glued down.


This is the side and back.

Cutting the fabric the way I did will give you plenty of cover for the corner.

This is the bottom.

This is what you would have had at the top.

This is fine, we are going to cover most of it.  AND it's the bottom.

Both of the insides of the sides are done.

Use the back cushion pattern to cut a back cushion from 1 layer of foam core.

Notice the No Batting Line.

This is a dry fit, no glue.

Soften the top curved edge.

Use the tacky glue to glue the batting to the foam core.

Smear the glue out to the edges.

Second layer of batting, don't glue batting to batting.  Just glue the batting to the foam core.

Last layer of batting.

This batting will be at the bottom line, even with the sides and will have extra at the top.

Extra at the top.

Don't glue the back cushion in, yet.

Place the back cushion into the headboard and trim off the extra batting.

Remove the back cushion.

Cut fabric with extra all around.

Glue the sides and bottom to the back.  Trim out the corners at the bottom.

Use tacky glue to glue the back cushion into the headboard.

Trim the top and cut notches into the top of the extra fabric.

Glue the extra fabric to the back of the headboard.

A dry fit.

Apply tacky glue to the head of the bed and a little at the sides.  Not too much on sides or it will press out.

Press the headboard onto the bed base/box spring and secure with "T"  pins.

Drill a couple of holes on the sides and at least 4 on the back.

The dowels are in and the headboard is secure.

Trace the side/wing pattern onto card stock.

Cut this out leaving the line on the rest of the card stock.

Apply  glue stick to the card stock and press the side cover onto your fabric.

Cut notches out on the curved sides and trim out the corners.

On the left I have extra fabric glued (use tacky glue) to the card stock.  LEAVE the back edge unglued.

Apply and smear tacky glue to the sides.

Press the side cover onto the headboard.

Apply tacky glue to the back and  fold the extra fabric to the back and press into the glue.

The side cover is on.

Glue the other side cover on.

Cut out a back cover from card stock.

Apply glue stick to the back cover and press onto your fabric.

Trim leaving extra all around.

Cut out the corners and cut notches along the curved top.

Apply tacky glue to the card stock and fold the extra fabric into the glue.

DO NOT glue the bottom extra fabric.

Apply and smear tacky glue to the back of the headboard.

Press the back cover into the glue.

Apply tacky glue to the bottom of the headboard and press the extra fabric into the glue.

The back cover is on.

On to the piping.

Cut your fabric on the bias, a diagonal cut.

I don't recommend making piping longer that 18".  Making piping any longer is very difficult to make.

Apply tacky glue to the edge and smear it to the edge.

I use size 10 crochet thread for the piping.

Press the crochet thread into the glue.

Fold the fabric over the crochet thread.

The thread has to be in the very fold of the fabric.

Use your fingernails to press the fabric and glue into the crochet thread.

Turn the fabric and do it again.

Repeat this at least 4 to 5 times to make sure the fabric is glued to the crochet thread.

Carefully cut the piping away from the fabric.

Cut very close to the piping, as close as you can without cutting into the piping.

We are going to need two pieces of piping for the headboard.

Apply tacky glue to the seam where the side cover meets the side.

Press the piping into the glue.

Try to put the glued seam of the piping into the glue.

My first piece of piping made it to the second wing.

I started a new piece just beyond the corner.

The bed is done.

Closeup of the piping on a wing.

I just don't think a piece of upholstered furniture is finished unless I've applied the piping.

Or welting in upholstering terms. I am a old sewer so I say piping, I do apologize to the upholsterers out there.

On to the mattress.

I used 3layers of foam core, 5" x 6 3/4".

I measured my bed and it was 25" off the floor. Using 3 layers of foam core came close to that measurement.  You can change this if you want.  Remember, you can change any of these measurements for your bed.

Cut and glue a strip of batting onto two long sides and one short side.

Leave one short side without batting.

The side against the headboard without batting.

Cut one piece of batting for the top of the mattress.  Apply and smear tacky glue to the top of the mattress and lightly press the batting onto it.

I have to tell you I changed my mind about the sheets.  Neal, my son-in-law had the olive sheets.  We both liked the olive, cream and print  layering.  With that being said the  first layer of pillows would have to be olive so that meant I would have to have cream sheets because the second layer of pillows, the actual bed pillows were to be cream.  I made a fitted bottom sheet and a top sheet from cream colored fabric.  I didn't like the look of cream sheets. I took off the top sheet  and I left the bottom cream sheet because it would have made a mess to take it off.   So there is a fitted cream colored sheet on the mattress to the left.
You see that I don't have enough fabric to make two sheets for realism.  Let's throw realism out the window because Neal was right, the olive sheets look better.

I am making a faux sheet!  You don't even have to cover all of the batting if you are going to be dressing the bed fully and all of the sheets won't be seen.

I have a piece of fabric that is 7"x 9".

I am making the top part of the sheet fitted.

I know it's at the end of the bed but that's so I can get to the sheet.

Pinch  and pin the corners.

Remove the sheet and with a pencil draw a line where the pin is on both sides.

I hand sewed on the drawn line.  I back stitched over the drawn line, it looks messy but no one will see it.

Trim off the extra fabric.

Turn the sheet to the right side so that the stitching is on the inside of the sheet.

Place the sheet at the top of the mattress.  Remember, that's the end with no batting.

Fold over 1/2" on the other end finger press.

I measured from the top of the mattress 1 1/4" and brought up  the other end of the sheet.

Turn the mattress over and mark a line where the fold is on the bottom of the mattress.

I glued the top end of the sheet to the bed.

I made a pencil mark on each side of the mattress where the sheet is turned.  That's going to depend on how much fabric you use or "have" to use.

I glued the sides to that  mark.

Cut the fabric out of the corners.  Trim the corner fabric down to a sliver.  Yes, that has your seam in it.

Glue the sliver down.

Fold the sheet up and you can glue the mattress to the bed base/box spring.

No one will ever know that I don't have two sheets on this bed.

So my first layer of pillows are going to be olive.  They are big square pillows.

My pattern is 2 9/16" square.

Draw around the pattern on doubled fabric twice.

Cut the pillows out leaving at least 1/4" extra all around.

I pin my pillows from underneath so I won't catch my thread on the pins, so annoying.

Yes, I hand stitch my miniatures.  I used to sew a lot, really a lot.  It takes more time for me to get the machine threaded up than to stitch up a pillow.

Leave an opening to turn.

Finger press the opening down.

Bring the thread out between the layers of fabric.

Trim the corners.

Turn the pillow to the right side.

You may stuff your pillow any way you like.  I thought I would try something new with these.

I cut a piece of batting a little smaller all around for the first layer.

I wanted these pillow to be stiff and stand up at the head of the bed that's why I am using batting.

I cut four layers, getting smaller with each one.

I cut a piece the same size as the second layer also.

This is an experiment.

I put the biggest layer in first.

Then I slipped in the two second layers, one on top and one underneath the first layer.

I kept slipping the layers in on top to the smallest layer.

On the second pillow I put all the layers in at once. I found that it was easier.

Again, you can use your favorite method of stuffing pillows.

Sew the pillow closed.

For review, fold your fabric on the bias, diagonal and cut.

Apply tacky glue to the edge and smear it toward the edge.

Use size 10 crochet thread for the piping.  Press the piping into the glue.

Fold the fabric over the crochet thread.  The thread has to be in the very fold of the fabric.

Press the fabric together with your fingernail.  Turn and repeat.  Repeat at least 4 to 5 times to make sure the glue has sealed against the crochet thread.

Cut very close to the piping.

I wish I had taken a picture of each layer of pillows as I finished them.

I have glued the piping onto the big square olive pillows.
The next pillows are the actual bed pillows and pillow cases.  They are cream not olive.  I don't care, the pillows looked better stacked this way.  The cream gives a good background to the print pillows.  From the side I have olive sheets and cream lining to the print duvet.  The same order as the pillows.

This is my pillow case pattern.

Draw around the pattern on doubled fabric.

Cut out the pillow case adding extra on the two long sides and one short side.

Sew one long side.

Open the fabric and finger press the seam open.

Apply tacky glue to the hem end.

Let dry a bit.

Fold down 1/2" and finger press.

Unfold the hem and pin the wrong sides back together and finish sewing the pillow case together.

Trim the corners and turn the pillow case right side out.

Make two.

I am making the bed pillows to fit inside the pillow cases.

This is the pattern that I traced around.

I sewed around the pillows, left an opening for stuffing, folded over the fabric in the opening and finger pressed it just as in the square olive pillows.
I trimmed the corners and turned the pillow to the right side.
For the rest of the pillows I am using micro beads.  You can buy these but they come in a very large bag.  I bought mine from  Maybe you could share with another miniaturist.   Tigger, one of my cats got into my bag of micro beads and there really wasn't any way of recovering what she let out.  I bought a big can from a antique mall to keep my micro beads in from that time on.  I first found mine in squishy, stretchy, usually shiny pillows.  Sometimes they are travel  pillows.  Look for them at Goodwill or thrift shops. One pillow will do you a lifetime and it won't cost much.

I filled the bed pillows 3/4 full.  For my sofa pillows I fill about 1/2 full for squishing into the corner of a sofa and looking real.

Sew the pillow closed.

Use the same pattern for the large decorative print pillows.  Follow the directions for the square olive pillows.

I used twisted embroidery floss for the trim.  I used 6 strands.

These are the patterns for the two accent pillows.

Cut solid strips of fabric 1" wide.

Cut a print strip 13/16" wide.

Cut a print strip 11/16" wide.

Apply a line of tacky glue on the right side of the print fabric.

Press the solid and print strips together.

Press well to seal.

Fold the fabric open.

I have  used the pattern to make a back to the pillow, it's in the above left of the picture.  It has the sewing line and the lines where the print insert should be.

I've applied another line of glue to the print fabric and glued on the other solid strip of fabric.

I've finger pressed the seams.

I used my pattern to make sure the center strip is the right width.

I have glued on twisted embroidery floss for a trim.  This trim has 3 strands.

I've pinned right sides together and will sew around leaving an opening for stuffing.

This is the rectangle pillow.

I've sewn the pillow.  I have an opening for stuffing. I've brought the thread out between the layers of fabric.  I've trimmed the sides and corners.

Finger press the opening down and turn the pillow.

Here are all of the pillows on the bed, again.

I made piping from the olive fabric for the small accent pillows.

As I mentioned before finding textures is hard to do for miniatures.  The fabric on the left is a cotton gauze used for summer blouses, it does come in colors but I bought white because I was really into dying fabrics for a while.  The other fabrics are cross stitch fabrics, I believe they are called Hopscotch? This is a large weave and looks great as a blanket under the duvet or a coverlet on top of the duvet.  Look around in the garment section of the Goodwill, you can find some great silk blouses.  Last time I bought these they were only $3.00 a blouse.

For the center of the duvet or the actual duvet, I am using flannel.  I bought a couple of yards of white cotton flannel and I will have it for a very long time.

For the duvet cover I cut my fabric 8 1/2" x 7 3/4".

I have right sides  together and I've drawn a seam allowance of 1/4"

I'm pinned and I'm ready to sew.

I've trimmed the corners and finger pressed the opening.

I have also finger pressed the seam open.

I am going to glue twisted embroidery floss into this seam and it helps if it's open and flat.

I've cut the flannel 7 5/8" x 7 1/4".

I've pinned the flannel to one side of the fabric.  The pins do not go through to the second layer of fabric.

A NOTE:  Insert the pins opposite of mine.  It will make removing the pins much easier for you.

Turn the duvet cover to the right side.  Remove the pins and settle the flannel into place.  Sew the opening closed.

I've made twisted embroidery floss for the trim around the edge.

This is the little drill I use to twist the floss.  I used 6 strands for this trim.  I bought my drill from Hobby Builders Supply.

Put the duvet onto the bed.  Fold the top back the measurement you like.  Pin into place and steam.  I used my steam iron, if you have a steamer use it.

Let this dry over night before removing the pins.

Another picture of the bed.

For twisted embroidery floss trim you secure one end of the floss and twist, keep twisting.
Holding one end and with the other hand grab the middle of the twisted floss.  Move so that the two ends are together.  You are still holding the floss in the middle, start to let the floss turn back on itself at the middle.  You can help it along to keep it neat.

I am using a piece of cotton velveteen I bought at a show a million years ago.  I wish I could find printed cotton velveteen for miniature upholstery.  This fabric is wonderful to work with.
I made a lovely sofa set with this particular fabric a couple of years ago.
Neal picked this out for the coverlet.  I am making fringe for it.  I am rolling a knot off my finger and cutting the length at about 1/2".  This is 6 strands.  This is glued onto the edge all around leaving about a 1/4" showing.

Using 3 strands of embroidery floss I twisted embroidery floss trim for the coverlet and glued it to the edge above the fringe.

I've cut fabric to cover the back.  You wouldn't have to do this.

I turned a hem all around.

I applied a line of glue to glue the lining on.

Arrange and pin the coverlet down and steam.  When you steam get the fabric damp with the steam.  Let it dry over night.  Try not to touch it or you might leave a print or depression that you won't be able to steam out.

The finished bed.  If it were big enough Tigger would be on it!

Here is another view of the finished bed.

Everybody has there own style and I would love to see how you would dress this bed.  I love working with fabric so I couldn't resist finishing this.

This is the set of furniture I was talking about earlier.  I believe this went to North Carolina.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving!!!

Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . .

Just Keep Making Minis!

Talk to you later, Kris