Thanks for the comments!

Hi Guys,  I am glad you are enjoying the wine rack.  You know laminating has been around for a long time.  I help my husband laminate with thin pieces of wood to make curved trim for windows.  I use even thinner pieces of wood for my miniatures.  I thought it would be fun to make this piece for you from card stock and mat board.  Yes, you can laminate the card stock or quilling paper to just about any shape you want for your designs.  As I say at the bottom of  the tutorial, expand on it, make it better.  I am just a starting point for your creativity.

How to Make a Dollhouse Miniature "Marble" Topped Wine Rack from Card Stock, Part 3

If you haven't got your 4 legs done, yet, you can go on to the marbling.

Everybody has a favorite way to marble and if you do, please use what you are comfortable with.  
This is yet another way to marble.

After you've got a good coat of white on the top you will use a charcoal pencil, extra soft, to make your lines.  I found a way to make the best random lines by accident.  I wanted to sharpen the charcoal pencil and draw nice sharp lines.  The charcoal kept breaking in the sharpener.  The pencil tip would have a broken tip, it had a nice sharp edge all around the broken tip.  Instead of drawing, pulling the pencil, I would roll the edge in a random pattern.  This gave me a thick and thin line with little variations in direction that I couldn't get by drawing that perfect line.  This worked out for me, try it out.  Don't forget to draw lines over the edges of the top.

 This is my top after I have my lines on, each time I do make the lines the top turns out differently.

I don't get too worried about the lines anymore, we just want to suggest marble.

This next thing we do is smudge the lines with your fingers, leave about 20% of the lines un-smudged.

Mix the Magnolia White with Americana's Glazing Medium, 50/50.

Use a small sponge to dip into the paint, blot off on  newspaper first; next blot over the lines you made on your top.

You are sinking the lines into the marble.  Don't cover up your lines,  just blot here and there.  

Let this dry.

To finish the top I apply a coat of Delta's PermEnamel Satin Glaze.  I let this dry and lightly sand it with 320 grit sand paper.  I apply a final coat of the satin glaze. 

When this coat is dry I buffed the top with a piece of crumpled brown paper bag.

Have you got 4 legs, yet? 

                                      

 Let's start gluing the legs on.  The legs are glued onto the underside of the apron, diagonally to the corners.

Apply glue to the apron and slide the flat top part of the leg to the corner.  Stop just before the curve of the leg touches the apron edge.  The back of the foot should be touching the corner of the wine bin.

Turn the table over and make sure the leg is in the center of the corner of the apron.

Glue the back of the foot to the corner of the wine bin.

Glue the rest of the legs on the same way.

Attach a sticky toothpick to the apron and go outside and spray your wine rack.

Center and glue your "marble" top on.  It's a good idea to clamp it on to keep everything flat.  Always use card stock between the clamps and your work to prevent marks.

These are my 2 tops, one has more lines it, they all come out different.

 

This is a picture of the finished table.  Fill the racks with wine bottles and place a display of fruit and cheese on top and I think we have a winner. 

 

 

 Have  fun, expand on it, make it better and just keep making minis.

Talk you all later, Kris                                                

How to Make a Dollhouse Miniature "Marble" Topped Wine Rack from Card Stock, Part 2

During the time you are laminating the parts for your table you can be sealing the top for the marble finish.

I attach the top to a toothpick with sticky wax and use an acrylic finish.  I used Delta's PermEnamel Satin Glaze.  This will seal the cut edges and surface of the mat board.  I applied two coats, let these dry thoroughly.  I sanded using 320 grit sand paper and applied one more coat, nice and smooth.  Coat both sides; you can paint around the toothpick.  Let dry.

Another thing you can do is make the wine bins.  I made the bins from Coats & Clark Classic Crochet thread.  I tried other materials but the crochet thread worked best.  


Tape your card stock pattern to your table. 

 Tape a piece of waxed paper over the pattern.

 I found the easiest way to lay the thread on was to affix the tape to one end of the thread first.

Next, line up the thread and press the taped end down.

Pull the other end and tape it down.

Do one direction first then the other.

Use the yellow wood glue to glue where the thread crosses with itself.  Get between the layers of the thread and be neat.  It will count later.  Let this dry.

Before you take the wine bin off the pattern make marks on the thread where the pattern ends.  This will give us a guide to cut on.


Lift the waxed paper off the table and set it aside. 


Tape another piece of waxed paper over your pattern and make the second wine bin.

Are the 3 coats of satin glaze dry on your top, yet?  If they are you can give the top at least 3 coats of white paint.  I used Delta's Ceramcoat Magnolia White.  Paint 2 coats, both sides (around the toothpick), let dry thoroughly.  After the top is dry sand smooth, use 320 grit sand paper and apply another coat of paint.  If you think you need more coats, apply them. When you are satisfied sand lightly and give a smooth final coat of paint.  We want complete coverage.

You've got a lot of things going on right now, haven't you?  There are parts and pieces everywhere.

If your wine bins are made and the glue is dry carefully cut them away from the waxed paper.  If you have any glue globs at the crosses carefully cut them away.


Are your wine racks dry?  If they are we can assemble the bins into the racks.
You will probably have to trim, if you do, take a little bit off at a time, dry fit again, trim again.  When you get them to fit, glue the bins into the racks.  Glue the bins so that they are even with one side of the rack.  Let these dry.

Get the apron that you set aside earlier.  Cut a piece of mat board that fits in the center, between the long sides, on the underside of the apron.  Cut this piece of mat board 7/8" (23mm) wide.

Glue this piece of mat board to the center of the underside of the apron.

Measure and mark the center of this piece for later.  Set this aside again.

Glue 4 layers of 1/8" (3mm) card stock together, these strips should be at least 3" (71mm) long.

After the strips are glued together and dry measure and mark 4 pieces at 5/8" (16mm) long.


Cut these pieces and set them with the wine racks.

When the wine bins are dry, good and dry use a brush and black acrylic craft paint and paint the thread.  I spray painted my first table without doing this step and the spray paint made the thread fuzzy.  We are going to spray paint the table, but paint the thread first.  Let this dry.
Dry them on waxed paper with the flat side on the paper.  Don't leave them to dry like I have them here.

                            Are you making legs?

Get the wine racks and the little 5/8" (16mm) long strips together.  These little strips are to be glued; two at the bottom corners of the wine racks; I glued mine to the outside of the racks.  

The other 2 strips are glued a little higher, at the top of the second 1/2 diamond.  Let this dry. 

This assembly needs to be straight and square.

When the first side is done and has dried, glue the other side to it.

Glue the wine rack to the underside of the apron.  Center the rack side to side, front and back.  Set it down and check if the top is level.  Let Dry.






End of Part 2

How To Make a Dollhouse Miniature "Marble" Topped Wine Rack From Card Stock

I saw this table in an old Williams-Sonoma catalog and liked it.  I tear pictures out of catalogs and tape them all over my room, "To Make Some Day".  I have a soft spot for wrought iron.  I don't know why, I don't buy any wrought iron in full size.  We will have more tutorials on card stock wrought iron.

This project will take a couple of days to complete.  It really is in your best interest to let the laminated pieces of card stock dry and cure in the forms for the most consistent results.  Letting the shapes cure in the forms will give you less headaches when the assembly starts.

We are going to use card stock, mat board, crochet thread, flat black spray paint, black acrylic craft paint and Elmer's yellow wood glue or TiteBond yellow wood glue for making the table.

The marbling will require Delta's PermEnamel Satin Glaze, Delta's Ceramcoat Magnolia White, Americana's Glazing Medium, a charcoal pencil (extra soft), 320 grit sand paper and a small sponge.

 Cut 2 pieces of mat board 2 3/4" (7cm) x 1 1/4" (32mm).  Use a new blade in your craft knife and try to keep the blade perpendicular to your table.  We don't want beveled edges; the edges need to be straight up and down.  If you have access to a scroll saw, use it.

Cut one of these pieces a little smaller; take off about 3/32" (2mm) on one short end and one long side.

 

I have used 320 grit paper to round off the top edges on all four sides of both pieces.  Use yellow wood glue to glue these two pieces together.  Center the smaller one on top of the larger one.  This gives your "marble" top a fancy edge.  Weight this down to prevent warping.

The wine rack pattern is on the left and the leg pattern is on the right.

I have drawn a 1 inch square and a 3mm square on the pattern that you are to copy.  Load the pattern into a program that you can adjust sizes with.  When your squares measure 1 inch or 3mm you have the right size.  Print the patterns onto card stock and cut them out.  

Use the wine rack pattern first.  Trace the pattern onto 2 pieces of mat board. Be careful, and cut slowly, making many passes with the craft knife.  You don't have to cut through the first time.

When you have the 2 pieces cut out glue them together with the yellow glue, weight or clamp until dry.

 Use an old candle to wax the edge all around.  The wax will prevent the glue from sticking to this edge.  This is your wine rack form. 

A Note:  You can try using one layer of mat board for your forms, I am sure it will work if care is used.  I have a scroll saw and I cut the mat board after it's been glued together, so I use two layers. 

We are going to use 1/8" (3mm) wide card stock.  Quilling paper comes to mind, I know.  Quilling paper probably would work, but you would have to glue more layers together for the strength we get from fewer layers of card stock.

Mark the card stock at 1/8" (3mm) intervals and cut using a straight edge and craft knife or if you have a paper trimmer use it.  I usually cut a few ahead.

To begin making wine rack hold your strip of card stock on the bottom and pull the card stock around the form to the other side of the bottom, overlap the strip and glue the card stock together.  We will be using yellow wood glue throughout the tutorial. 

I have overlapped the card stock and glued it together. 

When you run out of card stock butt the ends and start another strip.  Keep wrapping the card stock around the form until you have four layers.  I make tick marks on a scrap of paper to help me remember how many layers I have.  

 

Let this dry on the form at least a couple of hours.  After it is dry, make another.

 To make the apron (the support for the "marble" top) cut one piece of mat board 2 7/16" (62mm) x 1 1/16" (27mm).  Use the 1/8" (3mm) wide card stock and wrap this piece of mat board with four layers of card stock, gluing the card stock to the mat board.  Keep one side of the mat board even with one side of the card stock.  One side will be flat while the other will have a lip.  Set this aside for now.

Trace the leg pattern onto 2 pieces of mat board.  You are using the shaded area on the pattern.  Cut out the pattern and glue the 2 pieces of mat board together to make the leg form.  Clamp or weight this down until dry.

Wax only the edge I have marked in the picture.

 To begin to make a leg, glue the end of the 1/8" (3mm) card stock strip over the top corner, just a bit to anchor the first strip.

 Bring the strip down around the curve to the end (foot).  A rubber band helps to hold the first strip in place.

It also helps to push the card stock strip back into the curve when you are making the foot.

I  also use a quarter inch dowel that has been sharpened in a pencil sharpener for a useful tool making this leg.

(I have a couple of layers on here and I am shaping with the dowel.)

 

 For the first layer only cut a bit extra of the card stock and fold to the outside of the tip (foot) and glue this down.

For the second and consecutive layers (make 5 layers) DO NOT FOLD and GLUE the ends.  Begin the second layer by spreading glue onto the card stock at the top, lay the second layer of card stock on and continue spreading glue and pressing the card stock into it.  I use the sharpened dowel to press the card stock together and shape the foot.  Cut the card stock off even with the ending tip.  

After you have 5 layers on the form spread some glue on the outside layer, this is just to help stiffen the leg.

When the table is assembled it is very study.

Set this aside to dry, at least a couple of hours, overnight would be better.  If you work you could make a leg in the morning, take it out when you get home; make another leg to dry overnight and take it out in the morning and so on.

To remove the leg from the form use your craft knife to cut the card stock at the top corner and the tip of the foot.  If the leg is sticking to the form, run your craft knife between the form and the leg.  Make 4 legs.

This is the end of part 1